Whoosh!

Whoosh! The cool, damp air rushes past my ears as I pick up speed. Winding my way through tall towering trees, shards of sun pierce the canopy. My shadow darts across the dappled light. I stop to take a photo, my glasses steaming up in an instant, but clear again by the breeze as I…

Xishuangbanna

As we headed south towards Laos, through the deepest south of China, it felt like we had already crossed a border into a different country. The roads were lined with coffee and banana plantations; the air was humid, the forests more tropical, and there were even wild elephants… …but it was more than that. The…

Erhai Lake

As we approached Dali, we flipped a coin to decide which road to follow, and ended up going the long way round Erhai Lake. We’re glad we did, even if it did take an extra day. We cycled through little fishing villages where locals waded out into the water or took cormorants out on fishing…

Visa extension in Lijiang

Information for anyone planning on extending their visas in Lijiang. This information was correct on 3 December. It is very easy to extend your Chinese visa in Lijiang. Processing time is less than 2 working days, and very little paperwork is required. Step 1: Register with the Lijiang Old Town Police Station. We couldn’t register…

Tiger Leaping Gorge

While awaiting our visa extensions, we took a trip up to Tiger Leaping Gorge, a couple of hours by bus north of Lijiang. The Gorge is about 4000m deep, and a well trodden path leads along the northern side, high above the valley floor. We were aiming for the Halfway Hostel for the night. Normally…

7000m in 8 days

Not long after Lugu Lake, we joined the direct 100km mountain road to Lijiang. After a few kilometres, a few people told us we should turn back, as the road ahead was closed. As we didn’t want to go along the busier and longer route round the mountains, we stubbornly carried on. So, some of…

Lu Gu Hu

Back on our bikes after a couple of weeks off, we decided to head up to Lugu Lake, on the border between Sichuan and Yunnan. The Lugu Lake area is populated by the Mosuo people, one of the few matrilineal societies in the world. Traditionally, when women get married, they retain their name and home….